The Marginalia Problem
Pensive
page 26 of 53

The Friend She Didn't Expect

It was Kettle who walked her out, although neither of them, at the time, would have said that this was what was happening. He stood up when she stood up, which was, in that room, the closest thing to a declaration; he picked up his cookbook and tucked it under his arm in the manner of a man who had been picking up that particular cookbook and tucking it under that particular arm for long enough that the book had, over time, developed a slight curve to fit him. He nodded at Maro, who did not look up but moved his finger. He did not nod at Penn. Penn had returned, with relief, to her footnotes, and did not require farewells.

In the vestibule the small woman who took names without writing them down looked at Kettle and then at Iyla and then back at Kettle with an expression Iyla could not read but which Kettle, evidently, could, because he said, "Yes, Edith. I will," and Edith, who had not, on the face of it, spoken, made a small satisfied noise and pointed at the door with the pencil.

"What did she say," Iyla said, on the pavement.

"That I was leaving with you. That I would behave." He shrugged. "Edith talks without using air. She saves it for biscuits."

It had begun, while they were inside, to rain in the way November rains in this city, which is to say not very much and entirely without conviction, as if the sky had been asked to do it and had agreed only to be polite. Kettle, without comment, produced from his coat a folding umbrella the size of a paperback, opened it over Iyla without making any visible show of having done so, and began to walk in a direction which was not, she noticed, the direction of any tube station.

"Are we going somewhere," she said.

"Soup," he said. "Leek and potato. Four streets. You can say no."

"Have other people said no?"

"Some. I am told it is what one does, on a first afternoon, with a person from the building."

"What did you tell them."

"That I wasn't listening." He glanced at her, sideways, under the umbrella. "I am telling you now because Maro has just spent forty minutes telling you about the tax, and the tax is paid in trust. I am not going to take any I haven't earned."

"That," Iyla said, "is the most elaborate way anyone has ever asked me to lunch."

"That was the long sentence," he said. "I have one a day. Spent."

"Is that a rule."

"It is now."

"Why so few."

"People expect a cookbook reader to be thick. I find it easier to be brief and let them stay wrong."

"I'm not going to give up," Iyla said.

"No," he said, mildly. "Maro liked you. Four times, that's happened. In years. Don't take it personally. But know."

The place, when they got to it, was the size of a generous cupboard and had three tables and a counter and a woman behind the counter who looked at Kettle the way one looks at a recurring expense one has, over time, come to be fond of. They sat at the table in the window. Kettle did not order. The soup came. There was also bread, which Iyla had not seen Kettle ask for, and butter, which was on a small plate with a small knife, and which Kettle pushed, without ceremony, halfway across the table so that the small knife was pointing, neutrally, at neither of them.

"So," Iyla said. "Kitchens."

"Kitchens," Kettle said.

"Only kitchens."

"Only kitchens." He tore a piece of bread. "Hundred and twenty of them. Seven years. I bring back a smell, mostly. Sometimes a method. Twice, an object. A wooden spoon with a burn I didn't put there. A pot of mustard a colour we don't have here."

"Food?"

"Food doesn't travel. Arrives as the idea of food. Not worth the trip."

"Why kitchens," Iyla said.

He considered the question for slightly longer than she had expected.

"I'm good at them," he said, and tore another piece of bread, and let that be the answer.

"Penn would tell me you've narrowed yourself."

"Penn tells the hummingbird it should also be an eagle." He shook his head. He did not elaborate; he ate the bread, and looked, briefly, pleased that the bread was what it was.

"And Maro."

"Maro reads cookbooks too. He has a Marcella Hazan in his bag. I've seen it. I haven't said." He ate the bread. "He thinks pleasure is a moral failure. He's been failing, in private, at a ragù for three years. I love him for it. If I told him, he'd leave the building."

Iyla laughed. The laugh surprised her; she had not, she realized, laughed out loud, in the presence of another person, since before the apple. It came out of her in the unpracticed way a thing comes out of a person who has not used the particular muscle in a while, and Kettle, hearing it, did not look at her, which she understood, with a small grateful jolt, to be a kindness on the order of Maro's finger on the line.

"What do you do in Lentar," he said, after a moment, into the soup. "Not the tour. Penn will ask for the tour. Don't give it. What do you do with your hands."

She thought about it. She thought about it longer than she had thought about most questions in the last month.

"I walk," she said. "I look at things. I — I have been, mostly, finding out what's there. There's a baker. There's a fountain. There's a man on a coin I didn't put there. I haven't, I think, done anything yet. I've been a — a tourist."

"Right thing. For a month." He looked at her. "After that it's cowardice. You'll know. Not yet."

"What would you do," she said. "If you could make one."

He did not, immediately, answer. He ate a piece of bread. He looked out of the window at the rain, which had, in the way of such rains, decided in the last few minutes to commit, slightly, after all.

"I wouldn't," he said.

"You wouldn't."

"I would not make a world." He spread butter on the crust, edge to edge. "One kitchen. The baker leaves the back door unlocked. I learn the bread. I come home. I make it here, on a Wednesday, for the woman at the counter. Her son has been ill. I bring her the loaf. I don't say where it came from."

He set the knife down.

He did not say more. He did not, Iyla noticed, look across at her to see whether she had taken the point. He drank his soup. The point, she understood, was the loaf; the loaf was the argument; and the man across from her was not, on principle, in the habit of pinning his arguments to the table with a label.

Iyla ate her soup. The soup was, as he had said, defensible. The bread was better than that.

"Kettle," she said, after a while.

"Mm."

"Is that your real name."

"No. It's the one I answer to. Edith named me. First afternoon. I came out of my first trip and asked for the kettle before I asked for my mother. She took it as a recommendation. I haven't, since, made her revise."

"What does your mother call you."

"Christopher." He drank. "Only her. Christopher is a name for a man who makes large decisions. I don't. Kettle is for a man who, when asked what he wants to be, says: warm. Useful. Occasionally, on request, capable of a whistle."

"Warm and useful," Iyla said.

"And occasionally, on request, capable of a whistle."

She wrote it down. She wrote it down in the notebook, on the page after the page where she had written The knocker on my door is a hand holding —, and she did not, when she wrote it, explain to herself why. She thought, vaguely, that it belonged on the list. The list of small specific true things. A name, given by a woman who did not waste breath, to a boy who read cookbooks, who had walked her four streets in a not-very-committed rain under an umbrella the size of a paperback, and had told her, without making any visible show of telling her, what he had to tell her by buying her a bowl of soup and pushing the butter halfway across the table.

When she looked up, Kettle was, with great seriousness and with the kind of attention the bread did not, on the face of it, deserve, buttering another piece. He pushed the plate of butter, again, a half inch toward her. She took the knife. She understood, taking it, that she had a friend, and that the friend was, in the building and outside it, going to be the part of this she had not, when she walked through the green door, thought to ask for, and the part, when the worse afternoons came, that she would be most glad she had.